Adventure Trekking in Thailand - Part I
Day 10-11 – June 23-24, 2016
Thursday - Friday
Nature is loud. It's 6:30am in the jungle near Mae Win,
Mae Wang, about two hours drive southwest from Chiang Mai city. It's
pouring rain. The crickets are chirping. The birds are singing and the dang
rooster has been cock-a-doodle-doing since 4am. We are sleeping under mosquito
netting in an open-air bamboo hut with a tin roof and a shared bathroom. The
past two days have been a crazy little adventure. We have been trekking through
the jungle in the hills of the Karen hill tribe villages.
On Thursday Boon and Kwan
picked us up from the Lanna Hill House at 7am and we loaded our stuff into the
back of a mini pick up truck with two benches on the sides and a metal roof.
This was going to be our transportation for the next few days. No seatbelts or
air conditioning—just some cutout windows in the plastic cover and some metal
bars to hold on to so you don't fall out the back when we go over bumps.
It was a two and a half
drive with a stop over at a local market for supplies. It was bumpy and hot and
uncomfortable but still kind of fun. We sang songs and talked and tried to keep
the little boys from fighting.
We arrived at a little
house down an alley with a covered carport full of bikes and it was time to
cycle through the Thai countryside. We all had bikes except Mikey who's still
not confident enough for a ride like this. Jeff pulled him behind his bike in a
little chariot. He loved it! Isaac was jealous after about 30 minutes of
riding. It was unbelievably hot but the biking seemed to go in and out if the
sun a little and the breeze from riding fast gave us a bit if relief. We
stopped at the bottom of a Buddhist temple set high above on the hill. We
thought it was just a little water break with a nice view. But turns out we had
to ride to the top! It was so steep we had to get off and push our bikes. Kate
and Isaac had hit their wall. It was hot and they were tired! Our guide, Boon,
had to push Isaac's bike to the top for him. We cooked off under a pavilion at
the top but Isaac couldn't pull it together yet. It took about 10 or 15 minutes
and a stop off at a little store to buy some lays potato chips and a can of
cold orange Fanta and then he just snapped back and decided he was going to
finish first. He cycled the rest of the way
in the very front and never complained again! I
was so proud of all of the kids for pushing through the heat. We were all
dripping with sweat by the end of our two-hour ride and anxious to go bamboo
rafting!
It was a picturesque
jungle river in some parts. But it was sad to see so much trash on the banks of
the river. We have seen no public trashcans in Thailand. Finding a
garbage is almost impossible it feels like. I assume there isn't the
infrastructure of city garbage collecting. I think there are dumps and I see a
lot of burn bins by houses and we've seen a few garbage trucks but there is
litter everywhere.
We changed into our
swimsuits in the back of our canopied pick and headed to the river. We split up
into three bamboo rafts, each with a boatman steering with a bamboo pole. I
hate to say it but even though the river was dirty, it still felt good to cool
off after the bike ride. We ran some small rapids and spent the hour looking
for water snakes and splashing the cool water onto our legs. Jeff and Kate's
raft floated down the whole river about 6" under water.
The road to the Karen
village was steep and rutted and we bounced around in the back of the truck.
"Bring all valuables" they told us as we got out to hike the last
hour to the village with our passports and electronics shoved into our daypacks
while the truck took the rest of our stuff. The cool temperature in the forest
felt so good and Boon showed us all different kinds of plants and trees.
We settled into our
bamboo hut and played with the chickens and fed the piglets and watched the
villagers working in the rice paddies and took in the beautiful scenery of this
jungle mountain valley. Sitting on the edge of Boon 2’s garden (our host in the
Karen village was also named Boon) and looking out over the valley filled with
rice paddies was a perfect place to sit and ponder and meditate. No wifi. No
distractions. I sat on the ground with the kids and we just talked while we
watched the happenings across the valley and imagined what it would be like if
we had been born in this village.
That night we did a
full-on Anthony Bordain style cooking lesson in Boon 2’s cooking hut. We sat on
bamboo mats and cut vegetables on cutting boards made from tree trunks. We minced
garlic by smashing it with a machete and then we cooked curries and stir-fries
over an open fire inside Boon’s bamboo hut. I loved that the kids all wanted to
help, especially with the cutting (which made me a little nervous being 3 or so
hours from a hospital if anyone accidentally took off a finger). When the food
was done, we all sat on the bamboo mat on the floor and ate. The food was
probably the best we’ve had so far in Thailand. The whole experience was
amazing! Jeff was in heaven! He only wished we had a camera crew there to
capture the whole thing!
Walking back to our hut
we could see a few lightning bugs floating through the air around us. After
using the rustic facilities (an actual toilet (bonus)! in a bamboo hut with a
plastic roof and lots of spiders. It also had a PVC pipe for a cold shower. No
sink or soap and we had the only roll of TP in the whole village), we collapsed
onto our mats on the floor and tucked our mosquito netting around us and listened
to the cacophony of sounds outside that I would venture to say almost rivaled
the decibels of midday traffic in Bangkok! Frogs, crickets, cicadas, birds,
rushing water to irrigate the rice paddies and roosters at 4am.
Loaded in the back of our "Songthaew" (song - taow), basically a little pickup with benches and a canopy, for a 3 hour drive up the mountain.
Mush?
Boon taught us all kinds of things to do with plants: blowing bubbles, making springy snakes, toy airplanes, arrows and making all sorts of hats.
Home sweet home.
Prepping the veggies for dinner.
Cooking over an open fire in the indoor kitchen of Boon 2's bamboo hut.
Best curry so far!



















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